Day 83 – September 18

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3 Highlights:

1. Watching the moon set over the mountains.

2. Stumbling into the famed Melanzana shop.

3. Tacos that might just change your life.

Daily Summary:

– Distance hiked: 12 km

– Starting point: Km 2897

– Ending point: Highway Km 2909

– Weather conditions: Sunny but deceptively chilly

Daily Reflections (challenges, insights, musings):

It began beautifully. I woke up to the moon setting in a majestic display. That magical moment was soon ruined when I realized my toes and fingers had turned to popsicles, courtesy of the freezing morning. In a moment of misplaced optimism, I thought starting a fire might warm me up. However, after a few unsuccessful attempts that nearly saw me sacrificing my dignity (and fingers), I gave up, cursing under my breath as I packed up the tent. 

Lanski, having slept through the fire fiasco, woke up cheerful, which did nothing to ease my grumpiness. We exchanged a few heated words — something about her “beauty sleep” and my “Eskimo toes,” and then she took off ahead. I followed shortly after, silently rehearsing an apology (though not just yet).

I spent the next three hours hiking in circles, utterly convinced I’d either lost her or that she was up ahead with a bear gnawing on her. Turns out neither of those was true. Just as I was contemplating whether to adopt a new trail name (something like “Lost and Annoyed”), I received a Garmin message. She was in Leadville. Having coffee. Meanwhile, I was still by the highway, miserably eating leftover scraps.

By sheer luck, a Texan named Kolton gave me a lift into town. He worked nights at a hospital in Vail, and in exchange for the ride, I bought him a coffee and a pastry. We then reunited at the post office, where Lanski was far more excited than I was to open some new gear.

Leadville, it turns out, has this little gem of a store called Melanzana. You can’t just walk in and shop there—you need a “reservation” (and waiting times are currently 9 months). But being CDT hikers (and generally disheveled), we were allowed to walk in and buy “one” item. I went for the hoodie, which I’m convinced will make me look slightly less homeless.

Post-gear shopping, we headed to our Airbnb where we encountered a guitar (a tiny one, mind you), birthday cake preparations, and an overwhelming sense of coziness. After a much-needed shower (and let’s be honest, some life-altering Mexican food from a nearby truck – Sabor Guaxaceño), I curled up with my Netflix account for the first time since June.

All in all, a day full of moments where things went wrong, but turned out just fine—just like any good adventure.

Good night!

Ice shaked off our tent
Valley views
Search an rescue team of one
Desperately trying to send a message to the lost hiker
High town
Somebody likes burritos (what’s up with the dinosaur fingers?)
New Melanzana outfit and sweet nances (yellow cherries) – all is well under the Leadville sky

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