Highlights:
1. Passing it forward to another hiker.
2. Breakfast at Ernie’s and pre-breakfast coffee at that café—I still can’t remember the name.
3. The feeling of freedom while hitchhiking.
4. Human Encounters: Lookup – UK photographer living in Thailand, Flood (again), Shannon at Ernie’s – recommended Glacier, Fox Den guy who shared tales of hitchhiking 2009 miles, army stories, a tragic brother fight, and some mellow wisdom (equanimity).
Daily Summary:
• Distance hiked: 37 km
• Starting point: Targhee Pass
• Ending point: Moose Creek Plateau
• Weather conditions: Mixed. Coldest day so far. Thunderstorms but no rain on me—yet. Now it’s starting to rain. I’m in my tent.
Daily Reflections (challenges, insights, musings):
The day kicked off bright and early because apparently, people in caravans believe 5 AM is the perfect time to make all the noise in the world. They just have to rush off in their massive vehicles to spot some wildlife, as if the animals are going to wait for them. Fatsoos!
After a cold shower and some meditation to reclaim my sanity, I packed up and headed to Ernie’s for breakfast to decide on my next move regarding the Tetons. Before that, I ran into Lookup, a British photographer living in Thailand, lugging around what looked like a camera from a 1980s sci-fi movie.
Breakfast at Ernie’s was the deciding factor—I’m going to the Tetons. More food, more planning, and more anxiety over river crossings and going off-trail. But hey, who doesn’t love a good exercise in valor when they’re miles away from civilization with only a phone and downloaded maps for survival?
I caught up with Lurp as she boarded her flight to El Salvador. I miss her and the little cutie pie, Belensita. After breakfast, I bumped into Lookup again at the resupply spot. I shared the story of yesterday’s generosity and insisted he take $25 from me, even though he protested that someone else would need it more. It felt good—passing on the kindness.
Hitchhiking wasn’t going so well at first. I spent 30 minutes standing at the edge of town, watching people drive by like I was invisible. I did see Mr. Bullrider pass by, though. I went for another coffee instead—because why not? After that, it took less than five minutes to get a ride. Rob, a biker and chef from North Carolina, picked me up. He works at some fancy resort selling wagyu steaks and shared stories of biking in Colombia and even the Medellín cartel. Oh, and he saw a grizzly at the trail just days ago. He gave me a banana—a good man.
Once I reached the trailhead, I checked the water situation. It was bleak. The first 5 km had water, but then nothing for 35 km. I already had a ton of food, so I prepared for a rough day. It turned out to be heavy but not too rough. The first 20 km were stunning, with a narrow trail that felt like it was leading me somewhere magical. Then it turned into a gravel road—still mesmerizing but not quite as inspiring.
Early on, I encountered two off-road vehicles whose drivers told me a large black bear had just crossed 400 yards away. Of course, I saw nothing. I decided to call it a day an hour earlier than planned to split up the distance better. 35 km today, another 35 tomorrow. It’s starting to rain now, and it’s quieting down. Good night.
