Highlights:
1. Soaking in the hot springs of Pagosa—pure bliss.
2. Reconnecting with family and friends in town.
3. Relaxing and catching up at the hotel.
Daily Summary:
• Distance hiked: 19 km
• Starting point: Km 3443
• Ending point: Wolf Creek Pass
• Weather conditions: Sunny
Daily reflections: “The Hitch, the Hot Springs, and the Hunt for Wi-Fi”
The day started early, 6 a.m., and the mission was clear: reach Wolf Creek Pass. The 9 km hike felt like the longest stretch of my life. Maybe it was the hunger, or the thought of a real meal in town that made every step feel like wading through molasses. I was determined to hold off eating until I got to town—trail food just wouldn’t cut it anymore.
Once I reached the highway, the real challenge began. I tried to hitch a ride, thumb out, smiling like I was advertising for the greatest adventure ever. Five cars went by—nothing. Not even a wave. So, I decided to meditate right there by the road. And, wouldn’t you know it, halfway through, I stuck out my thumb while still cross-legged. A car pulled over. It was Mike, a 43-year-old logger with his dog, Brutus.
Mike was an open book—friendly, honest, and a bit intense. There was an energy around him, like he was the kind of guy who could chop down a tree or just as easily disappear into the woods and not come back for days. Brutus, meanwhile, seemed personally offended that I had stolen his seat, but we quickly made peace when he started licking my ear. As we drove, Mike told me about a recent loss. There was a heaviness in his voice, and I felt both grateful and slightly nervous to be in this moment with him.
We ended up at a place called Hippie’s Something-or-Other for breakfast. It was fantastic—everything I’d been dreaming of. I offered to cover the bill, but Mike waved it off, ordering another Irish Coffee instead. Generosity takes many forms, and Mike in all his intensity was geniunely generous towards me. He then offered to take me to the local hot springs—my lucky day, indeed.
The hot springs were a dream. The kind of experience where you momentarily forget you’ve been living on the trail for months. Unfortunately, Mike dropped his glasses in the stream, which worried me a bit. He seemed less confident about driving afterward. The Irish Coffees might have played a part too. I hope he made it home okay. As much as I appreciated the company, I needed some solitude to get things done.
First stop, another coffee (rich and comforting), but the café had no Wi-Fi—just my luck. I wandered over to a budget hotel, only to meet some fellow hikers using the laundromat, though they weren’t staying there. The receptionist was less than impressed with me—no rooms, no laundry, no service. Not deterred, I made my way to a laundromat two miles up town.
Luckily, a friendly local named Russell offered me a ride there. Once at the laundromat, I realized they didn’t accept cards, so it was a 1 km trek to the gas station. I grabbed cash, milk, and a couple of hot dogs for lunch. With my clothes finally clean, I found a nearby hotel, the Alpine Inn—$110, but it felt worth it.
After checking in, I cleaned up and got down to business: planning my New Mexico resupply strategy. Some towns have very limited options, so mailing supplies will be key. With action mode fully engaged, I hiked 1.5 km to Walmart, ran into a few other hikers, and returned with my haul to start packing. It’s a surprising amount of food, and I’m curious (or terrified) to see how much mailing it all will cost.
Once packed, I took care of some work—accounting and social media updates. By then, exhaustion set in. Time to call it a night. Natti.
