3 Highlights:
1. Nature and wildlife – wolves singing a lullaby.
2. Lunch at Flagg Ranch.
3. New acquaintances.
Daily Summary:
• Distance hiked: 36 km
• Starting point: Heart Lake
• Ending point: Glade Creek Trail
• Weather conditions: Mixed, mostly sunny but not too hot.
Daily Reflections (challenges, insights, musings):
Yellowstone has been nothing short of spectacular. Last night, as I drifted off, birds serenaded me with their evening songs. But it was the wolves howling in the dead of night that really left an impression. They felt incredibly close—beautifully haunting, but also terrifying. Let’s just say my nightly bathroom break was short and sweet.
I set out early, around 7 a.m., with high hopes for lunch at Flagg Ranch. However, a kilometer in, I encountered a blocked path. The route was clearly off-limits, with branches and trees strewn across it like Mother Nature’s version of a “Do Not Enter” sign. Of course, I ignored it and ventured in. Big mistake. What followed was two miles of swampy hell—knee-deep in mud and no real path in sight. I emerged from the swamp like a scene from a bad horror movie and picked up the pace.
The scenery was beautiful, with wild turkeys providing a melodic backdrop at a nearby creek. About 6 km before reaching the southern border of Yellowstone, I spotted clear bear tracks. Fun fact: bears have very different front and back feet—who knew?
I reached Flagg Ranch in good time and visited the rangers to inquire about Tetons permit requirements. Apparently, it’s complicated: show up at 6 a.m., drive 30 minutes, stand in line, and hope for the best. I decided to stick with the pack mule route.
Lunch at Flagg Ranch was posh, with only a fancy restaurant available. I indulged in a bison salad and invited Granite—an ex-Navy guy who’s been struck by lightning, worked on wind farms, and spent two years in Italy—to join me for dessert. The desserts ended up costing more than the main course, but we ate like royalty. I spent $55 but walked away full and satisfied. It was the beginning of a hiking partnership that would endure for weeks.
As we sat there, more “hiker trash” rolled in. Chopsticks, who’s going north solo with a continuous footpath, Lip Balm, and Gallery, the ones who introduced me to the Teton alternate, and Barefoot and Lights Out from yesterday’s hot spring adventure, all showed up. It was good to have some company.
Lena, a friend from earlier on the trail, provided great contacts near Jackson, but unfortunately, they won’t be home when I arrive. Too bad, because Jackson is ridiculously expensive—$300 hotel rooms at a minimum. The smaller towns of Victoria and Driggs don’t seem to have camping spots or cheaper hostels either. Looks like Jackson will be a quick resupply and cleanup stop before I’m on my way again…let’s see.
